LAST TIME W/PETE MEL

By Neal Kearney

This article was previously printed by Transworld Surf in 2008

 

Went left at Mav’s–  Last session I had, I went left.  It’s so crowded out there these days that now the lefts are free game.  Because of the packed lineups, sometimes you’re forced to deal with what your given. The risk level at Mavs is highest it’s ever been.

Shaped a board–  My older son Anthony hit me up for one last year and we shaped one together.  Shaping boards is a lot of hard work and I have a lot of respect for shapers.  I still have a great interest in it, but my schedules been so hectic it’s hard to find time to do it but Anthony might be getting another one later this month.

                                                     The Condor getting roasted by Lil’ John

Got burned– John John, my youngest son, burns me all the time. Last time we surfed together he saw me on a wave and completely toasted me.  I don’t mind as long as he’s the only one who burns me.

Signed an autograph–  In Puerto Rico.  I just got back from good will tour for Quiksilver over there.  Signed as many autographs as I ever have in a weeks trip.  The Puerto Rican surf culture is super stoked, and the waves are fun too!

Got schooled by a grom–  Last summer at the Quiksilver Pro at Puerto Escondido. Ashton Madeley, a grom from South Side has had my number the past few comps I‘ve surfed against him in. But I finally got him back at the Volcom Contest last week.

Disagreed w/ judges-  I agree to disagree. Its part of my job being a to analyze what’s going on while I’m webcasting, but ultimately I’m not a judge, all I can do is give my two cents.

                                                                     Pete, getting beat

Two wave hold down–  It’s happened to me twice.  My last one was Jan 2007, at Mavericks. I had a wipeout which I didn’t even realize I was held down for two waves until Garret McNamara came to pick me up on the ski and yelled at me to let me know.  That’s when I kinda freaked out.

This wave eats boards for breakfast! Photo-Nelly

Broke a board– Last week at the Harbor.  Due to all the crazy storms, we’ve been fortunate lately to have some dredging sandbars lately.  But unfortunately, when the waves are dredging, your gonna pay some dues and break some boards.

Last book you read–  Called “Blue Water Gold Rush” by Tom Kendrick.  It’s a story about the urchin fishing trade in California.  It’s an incredible story I highly recommend it. Couldn’t put it down.  My old buddy Chris Brown is an urchin diver so I read it to get an idea of what it‘s like.

Chris Brown Wrap Around

 

Sold a bar of wax–  At Freeline Design last Tuesday I sold a bar of Sex wax.  Happens every time I work at the shop.

Won a contest–  Last week at the Volcom contest at 26 ^{th ave} , the beach break right by my house.  It’s been a long time since I’ve won a comp and it feels pretty damn good.

Pete’s right…

Pulled in at Waimea shorepound– During the Quiksilver Eddie Aikau event the year Bruce won.  Didn’t get a chance to this year.  In order to win the contest you almost have to.  I don’t think people really realize how gnarly it is.  Its one of the most dangerous shorepounds in the world.

Chased out of the water by a shark–  It’s never happened .  Knock on wood.  Closest call when I was surfing an unnamed slab up north and two seals buzzed me with fear in their eyes.  Thought I was a goner, but no shark.  So never really gotten chased out, but definitely had the shit scared out of me.

Pete’s proud Papa

 

Surfed with pops–  Just last month, dad and I surfed pleasure Point.  It’s so cool to surf with your dad, he’s in his 60’s.  Hope to keep doing it for years to come.

Got a stand up tube–  Santa Cruz Harbor just yesterday.  It’s illegal to surf there, but when its on it worth the risk.  Harbor patrol has been on it lately, issuing tickets during the last swell.  Tazy and Columbo got tickets (laughs).

Stressed on the economic situation?  This summer I almost sold my house, scared that I might lose it.  I realized I needed to do everything I could to keep it.  Got a vacation rental in the back, anyone need a room in Santa Cruz? Hit it up on vacationrentals.com!

Pete, whipped into a thickie

Had a tow surf– I tried it again on a swell last month.  I’ve come to realize that tow surfing is weak.  Paddling is where it’s out.  Watching the boys push it has gotten me inspired.  This year some of the boys, like Ramon Navarro, Greg Long, Shane Dorian, and Mark Healy have paddled into the of the biggest waves this year.

 

Last time you where grateful–  Just recently realized how grateful I was for my longtime sponsor Quiksilver, who’ve given me so much support over the years.  Also my other sponsors, Sanuk, and JC for all the boards. I live a blessed life, and I’m grateful for their support.

Pete and the beautiful Tara Mel

Last romantic Moment– Last night.  Can’t go into details but lets just say the romance has  lasted all these past 16 years.  Sweet surprises and candlelight dinners help keep the romance alive.

Last Magazine you read–  Transworld! (laughs) I also read a great article in Mens Journal about how to quiet your mind.  Some of the tips were incredible like -have a purpose, meditate, and cultivate good relationships- all in order to keep the stress down.  Stress can kill you, and I’ve found the tips useful.

Last time you pulled back on a wave–  During the Eddie.  In my first heat a set came at the very beginning of the heat, started to look over the ledge and pulled back.  Wish I could have that moment back, kicking myself cause it was one of the biggest waves that came through that heat.

A true surf fan, by a true surf fan

Last autograph you got– I got one from Grant Twiggy Baker after the he won the Pico Alto event in Peru. I like to collect winners contest jerseys. I also got a signed Nat Young’s O’Neill Coldwater Classic victory singet last year.

The beautiful and daring Savannah Shaughnessy

Last time someone made an impression on you- This winter at a session at Mavericks, Savannah Shaughnessy, a 20 year old young lady from Santa Cruz, rushed a big one on the bowl at Mavericks.  It’s rad to see the women getting out there and charging.

Last time you threw up– Can’t really remember. I stopped drinking three years ago, and now that I’m not polluting my body, I haven’t really been getting sick anymore.  Since I’ve been taking care of my body I can feel the difference, it‘s great.